Vis Island is a small, remote island in the Adriatic Sea, part of Croatia’s Dalmatian archipelago. Known for its unspoiled beauty and rich history, Vis has long attracted travelers seeking a more authentic and peaceful escape compared to more tourist-heavy Croatian destinations like Hvar or Dubrovnik. Its isolation—partly due to being a military base closed to foreigners until 1989—has helped preserve the island’s traditional culture, architecture, and environment.
The island is known for its rugged coastline, crystal-clear waters, and secluded beaches such as Stiniva Cove and Srebrna Beach. One of the most famous nearby attractions is the Blue Cave (Modra spilja) on the neighboring islet of Bisevo, where sunlight creates a mesmerising blue glow inside the grotto.
Vis also has deep historical significance. It was a strategic naval base in World War II, and its underground military tunnels can still be toured today. The island has been inhabited since ancient times, originally by the Greeks, who founded the colony of Issa in the 4th century BC. Roman and Venetian influences also left a mark on the island's architecture and culture.
Today, Vis is known for its slow pace, local wines (especially the indigenous Vugava and Plavac Mali varieties), and fresh seafood. Towns like Vis and Komiža offer charming harbours, stone houses, and family-run konobas (traditional taverns), making the island a unique blend of history, nature, and gastronomy. Its growing popularity was further boosted by being a filming location for Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again.
vis
The best way to reach Vis Island from Split is to take the Jadrolinija ferry departing from Split harbour, the harbour also serves as the main bus terminal, which makes it rather chaotic at times.
You can opt for the ferry or catamaran options. We took the fastest choice which is the catamaran at 1.5 hours (€9,70) as opposed to 2.5 hours by ferry (€9,10). The catamaran can be rather bumpy which is part of the fun, but if you’re the type who gets seasick in the bath then you better take the ferry.
Make sure you arrive at the harbour at least half an hour before departure so that you can find out which jetty your vessel will be leaving from. I would recommend purchasing your ticket a day or two before departure, especially in the high season. Though many people buy their tickets months ahead so as to avoid disappointment, see link above.
Diocletian’s Palace
(UNESCO World Heritage Site)
Diocletian’s Palace is not just a palace but a vast complex that blends Roman architecture with modern living. Built in the 4th century AD by Roman Emperor Diocletian, the palace served as his retirement residence and military fortress. Today, it forms the heart of Split's Old Town, with bustling streets, shops, restaurants, and historical landmarks.
Peristyle Square: The central courtyard of the palace surrounded by tall Corinthian columns is a popular gathering spot for tourists and performances and is notable for its mix of Roman and medieval architecture.
Cathedral of St Domnius (Former Mausoleum of Diocletian): Originally built as Emperor Diocletian’s mausoleum. It was converted into a Christian cathedral in the 7th century. The bell tower (57 meters high) offers breathtaking views of Split and the interior features beautiful carved wooden doors and Romanesque art.
Temple of Jupiter: Dedicated to the chief Roman god Jupiter, this temple later became a baptistery. Inside, you’ll find a beautifully carved sarcophagus and a statue of St. John the Baptist.
Golden Gate (Porta Aurea): The most impressive of the palace's four gates, originally used by the emperor himself and is decorated with intricate Roman carvings.
Silver Gate (Porta Argentea): Located on the eastern side, leading to the vibrant Green Market (Bazar) and is still a functional entrance to the palace complex.
Bronze Gate (Porta Meridionalis): The southern gate, which originally opened directly to the sea and was used by the emperor to access his private naval fleet.
Cellars of Diocletian's Palace: These underground chambers supported the palace's upper structure. Today, they are open for tours and often host exhibitions and markets. They provide valuable insight into the palace's original layout.
Vestibule (Entrance to the Emperor's Quarters): Is a grand circular hall that served as a ceremonial entrance and is known for its impressive acoustics, often hosting traditional Klapa music performances.
Guided Tours are highly recommended for history buffs to fully appreciate the site’s rich history. Early morning or late afternoon is best to avoid crowds. Modest attire is required for entering the cathedral. The Peristyle often hosts performances, and the cellars frequently feature art exhibits.
You can buy combined tickets to visit both Saint Domnius Cathedral and its Bell Tower from the tourism office located in Peristyle Square. Tickets cost around €10. Otherwise the rest of the complex is free.
There are many day tours available in and around Split you can either book them when you arrive, or prebook them before you leave home. GetYourGuide and Viator offer everything from City tours, Game of Thrones tours, food and wine tours, island tours to such gems as Hvar, Vis and the Pakleni Islands through to epic day tours to places like the Plitvice Lakes. Because we were doing some island hopping of our own, Helen and I opted for the Plitvice Lakes and waterfalls guided tour. Also Tripadvisor offer the same as above with the additional options of restaurant, hotel, flight, cruise and car-hire.
Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of Croatia’s most stunning natural wonders, located in the mountainous region of central Croatia near the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. As a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979, it is renowned for its cascading lakes, lush forests, and diverse flora and fauna.
The park is famous for its 16 interconnected terraced lakes that are divided into two sections, the Upper Lakes which are larger and surrounded by dense forest, these lakes are fed by numerous streams and feature dramatic waterfalls. Or (you’ve guessed it) the Lower Lakes which are smaller, more tranquil, and situated in a limestone canyon with striking turquoise and green hues. Crystal-clear waters flow from one lake to another via waterfalls of varying sizes, creating an enchanting landscape.
Plitvice offers an extensive network of wooden boardwalks and hiking trails that allow visitors to explore the park up close. These trails wind through lush forests, across crystal-clear lakes, and along stunning waterfalls.
The park is home to rich biodiversity, beech, fir, and spruce forests dominate, along with meadows filled with wildflowers. While it’s wildlife includes brown bears, wolves, lynx, deer, and a variety of bird species such as owls, eagles, and herons.
The geological foundation of the park is characterised by karst formations, including porous limestone and dolomite rocks. This creates natural barriers that help form the lakes and waterfalls. The lakes are known for their vibrant colours, ranging from deep blue to emerald green, which change based on mineral content, sunlight, and microorganisms.
We flew from Heathrow Airport to Split with British Airlines and used Skyscanner to book our flights.
Split Airport (SPU), also known as Zracna luka Split-Kastela, is located approximately 12 kilometres northwest of Split’s city centre. We used the Airport Shuttle Bus: Operated by Pleso Prijevoz, this service connects the airport to Split's main bus station near the ferry port. Tickets cost around €8 and can be purchased on the bus. Public Buses: Local bus line 37 link the airport (€4) with Split, Trogir, and Kastela. Taxi or Uber: Taxis are available at the airport, and alternative services like Uber operate in Split.
We stayed in a lovely apartment called Old Split Apartment, just minutes from the Riva, it was also very close to the bus stop from the airport; the same bus stop is close to the ferry terminal.
For more information on Split and surrounding areas check out this website.
And finally, Lonely Planet for their excellent guidebooks.
